Codeofchina.com is in charge of this English translation. In case of any doubt about the English translation, the Chinese original shall be considered authoritative.
This standard is developed in accordance with the rules given in GB/T 1.1-2009.
This standard replaces FZ/T 81008-2011 Jackets and the following main technical changes have been made with respect to FZ/T 81008-2011.
——The application scope of the standard is modified (see Clause 1, Clause 1 of Edition 2011);
——The normative references are modified and supplemented (see Clause 2; Clause 2 of Edition 2011);
——The requirements of instructions for use are modified (see 3.1; 3.1 of Edition 2011);
——The requirements of size specification are modified (see 3.2; 3.2 of Edition 2011);
——The assessment requirements of lining are modified, and provisions in "Except in special design” are deleted (see 3.3.2; 3.3.2 of Edition 2011);
——The assessment requirements of accessories are modified and supplemented (see 3.3.3; 3.3.3 of Edition 2011);
——The assessment requirements of wrap and weft yarns are modified (see 3.4; 3.4 of Edition 2011);
——The assessment requirements of strip and plaid matching are modified (see 3.5; 3.5 of Edition 2011);
——The assessment requirements of splicing are deleted (see 3.6 of Edition 2011);
——The assessment requirements for color difference of part covered with adhesive interlining are deleted (see 3.7.2 of Edition 2011);
——The assessment requirements of appearance defects are modified (see 3.7, 3.8 of Edition 2011);
——The division of part in Figure 1 is modified (see 3.7, 3.8 of Edition 2011);
——The assessment requirements for sewing are modified (see 3.8, 3.9 of Edition 2011);
——The requirements for ironing are modified (see 3.10; 3.11 of Edition 2011);
——The requirements of physical and chemical properties are modified and merged (see 3.11; 3.12 of Edition 2011);
——The contents of washing resistance are deleted (see 3.12.1 of Edition 2011);
——The assessment requirements of color fastness to transfer in joints are added (see 3.11);
——The assessment requirements for color fastness to soaping and color fastness to dry cleaning of decorating parts and embroidery are modified and supplemented (see 3.11; 3.12.3.2 of Edition 2011);
——The assessment requirements of tear force are added (see 3.11);
——The assessment requirements of appearance quality after washing are modified and supplemented (see 3.11; 3.12.1.3 of Edition 2011)
——The inspection tools are modified (see 4.1; 4.1 of Edition 2011);
——The requirements for specification determination are modified (see 4.2; 4.2 of Edition 2011);
——The requirements for appearance determination are modified (see 4.3; 4.3 of Edition 2011);
——The requirements for the determination of physical and chemical properties are modified (see 4.4; 4.4 of Edition 2011);
——The judgment basis for appearance quality defects are modified and supplemented (see 5.2.3; 5.2.3 of Edition 2011);
——The sampling rules and judgment rules are modified (see 5.3 and 5.4; 5.3 and 5.4 of Edition 2011);
——The annex "Test method for seam slippage" is deleted (see Annex A of Edition 2011).
This standard was proposed by China National Textile and Apparel Council.
This standard is under the jurisdiction of National Technical Committee on Garments of Standardization Administration of China (SAC/TC 219).
The previous editions of this standard are as follows:
——FZ/T 81008-1994, FZ/T 81008-2004 and FZ/T 81008-2011.
Jackets
1 Scope
This standard specifies the requirements, inspection methods, inspection rules and marking, packaging, transportation and storage of jackets.
This standard is applicable to the jackets mainly made of woven fabrics.
This standard is not applicable to the garments for infants aged 36 months and below.
2 Normative references
The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced documents (including any amendments) applies.
GB/T 250 Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Grey scale for assessing change in color
GB/T 1335 (All parts) Standard sizing systems for garments
GB/T 3917.2 Textiles - Tear properties of fabrics - Part 2: Determination of tear force of trouser-shaped test specimens (Single tear method)
GB/T 3921-2008 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Color fastness to washing with soap or soap and soda
GB/T 4802.1-2008 Textiles - Determination of fabric propensity to surface fuzzing and to pilling - Part 1: Circular locus method
GB/T 4841.3 Colour cards of standard depths for dyeing with dyestuffs 2/1, 1/3, 1/6, 1/12, 1/25
GB/T 5296.4 Instructions for use of products of consumer interest - Part 4: Textiles and apparel
GB/T 5711 Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Colour fastness to dry cleaning using perchloroethylene solvent
GB/T 8427-2019 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Color fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc fading lamp test
GB/T 8629-2017 Textiles - Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing
GB/T 8630 Textiles - Determination of dimensional change in washing and drying
GB/T 14801 Test method for skewness and bow in woven and knitted fabrics
GB 18401 National general safety technical code for textile products
GB/T 21294 Testing methods of physical and chemical performance of garments
GB/T 21295-2014 Requirements of physical and chemical performance of garments
GB/T 29862 Textiles - Identification of fiber content
GB/T 31127-2014 Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Colour fastness to transfer in joints
GB 31701 Safety technical code for infants and children textile products
GB/T 31702 Testing method for sharpness of attached components on textile products
GB/T 31907 Method of garment measurement
FZ/T 80002 Marking, packaging, transportation and storage for garments
FZ/T 80004 Rule for garments delivery inspection
FZ/T 80007.1 Test method of peeled off strength value for garments used adhesive interlining
FZ/T 80007.3 Dry wash resistance test method for garments used adhesive interlining
Sample photos of appearance defects on M&F unlined and padded garments and M&F children's unlined garments
3 Requirements
3.1 Instructions for use
Instructions for use shall comply with the requirements of GB/T 5296.4 and GB 31701.
3.2 Size specification
3.2.1 Size specification shall be set according to the requirements of GB/T 1335.
3.2.2 The specification of main parts shall be designed according to the relevant requirements of GB/T 1335.
3.3 Raw materials
3.3.1 Shell fabric
Shell fabric in conformity to the quality requirement of this standard shall be selected according to the relevant standards for textile fabrics.
3.3.2 Lining
Lining suitable for the applied shell fabric and complying with the quality requirements of this standard shall be adopted.
3.3.3 Accessories
3.3.3.1 Lining cloth, shoulder pad, border lace and pocket bag
Lining cloth, shoulder pad, border lace and pocket bag suitable for the performance and color of the adopted fabric and lining shall be used and their quality shall meet the requirements of this standard.
3.3.3.2 Sewing thread, rope belt and elastic ribbon
Sewing thread, rope belt and elastic ribbon (except ornamental thread and belt) suitable to the performance of the used shell fabric, lining and accessories shall be adopted.
3.3.3.3 Button, zipper and other accessories
Buttons (except decorative buttons), zippers and other accessories suitable for the adopted shell fabric shall be used. Button, ornamental button, zipper and other accessories shall be smooth in surface and free of burr, damage, defect and accessible sharp tip or edge. The zipper shall mesh in good condition and run smoothly.
Note: Accessible sharp tip or edge are the sharp edge and tip on finished product that may cause harm to human skin under normal wearing.
3.4 Warp and weft yarn
3.4.1 The permissible yarn skewness of the top collar, back and sleeve shall not be greater than 3%. The front bottom hem shall be free from any upwarp.
3.4.2 The weft skewness of yarn-dyed plaid fabrics shall not be greater than 3%.
3.5 Strip and plaid matching
3.5.1 Obvious strips or plaids of 1.0cm or above on shell fabric shall comply with those specified in Table 1.
Table 1 In cm
Parts Requirements for strip and plaid matching Remarks
Left and right fronts Strips shall be straight and plaids shall match each other horizontally with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.3 If the sizes of strip and plaid are different, the upper half of the clothes length shall prevail
Pocket and front Strips and plaids are matched with each other respectively with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.3. The patch pockets with inclined strips and plaids shall be symmetrical bilaterally with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.5 (except for the shadow strips and plaids) If the sizes of strips and plaids are different, the front part of pocket shall prevail
Collar point and lapel Strips are symmetrical with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.2 In case of any shadow plaid, apparent strip and plaid shall prevail
Sleeves Strips are straight; plaids are matched with each other horizontally; both sleeves shall be symmetrical in relation to the sleeve top, with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.8 —
Back seam Strips are matched with each other and plaids are matched each other horizontally, with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.3 —
Side seam Plaids are matched with each other horizontally and the mutual deviation 10.0 below the armhole is not greater than 0.4 —
Note: Except in special design.
3.5.2 Shell fabrics have obvious stripes or plaids of 0.5cm~1.0cm; for pocket and the front, stripes and plaids are matched with each other, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.2cm.
3.5.3 The grain direction of nip-up and down pile and checkerboard weave fabric is consistent all over the body.
3.5.4 Shell fabric with special pattern shall be subject to the main pattern and the grain direction all over the body shall be consistent.
3.6 Color difference
3.6.1 The color difference of top collar, lapel and front shawl from the front is greater than Grade 4, and that of other surface part is not lower than Grade 4.
3.6.2 The color difference of lining shall not be lower than Grade 3-4.
3.7 Appearance defects
The defect permissibility for each part of finished product shall comply with those specified in Table 2. See Figure 1 for division of each part of finished product. Only one defect within permissibility is permissible at each part. The defects not covered in this standard shall be in accordance with the requirements for similar ones in Table 2 based on their forms.
Codeofchina.com is in charge of this English translation. In case of any doubt about the English translation, the Chinese original shall be considered authoritative.
This standard is developed in accordance with the rules given in GB/T 1.1-2009.
This standard replaces FZ/T 81008-2011 Jackets and the following main technical changes have been made with respect to FZ/T 81008-2011.
——The application scope of the standard is modified (see Clause 1, Clause 1 of Edition 2011);
——The normative references are modified and supplemented (see Clause 2; Clause 2 of Edition 2011);
——The requirements of instructions for use are modified (see 3.1; 3.1 of Edition 2011);
——The requirements of size specification are modified (see 3.2; 3.2 of Edition 2011);
——The assessment requirements of lining are modified, and provisions in "Except in special design” are deleted (see 3.3.2; 3.3.2 of Edition 2011);
——The assessment requirements of accessories are modified and supplemented (see 3.3.3; 3.3.3 of Edition 2011);
——The assessment requirements of wrap and weft yarns are modified (see 3.4; 3.4 of Edition 2011);
——The assessment requirements of strip and plaid matching are modified (see 3.5; 3.5 of Edition 2011);
——The assessment requirements of splicing are deleted (see 3.6 of Edition 2011);
——The assessment requirements for color difference of part covered with adhesive interlining are deleted (see 3.7.2 of Edition 2011);
——The assessment requirements of appearance defects are modified (see 3.7, 3.8 of Edition 2011);
——The division of part in Figure 1 is modified (see 3.7, 3.8 of Edition 2011);
——The assessment requirements for sewing are modified (see 3.8, 3.9 of Edition 2011);
——The requirements for ironing are modified (see 3.10; 3.11 of Edition 2011);
——The requirements of physical and chemical properties are modified and merged (see 3.11; 3.12 of Edition 2011);
——The contents of washing resistance are deleted (see 3.12.1 of Edition 2011);
——The assessment requirements of color fastness to transfer in joints are added (see 3.11);
——The assessment requirements for color fastness to soaping and color fastness to dry cleaning of decorating parts and embroidery are modified and supplemented (see 3.11; 3.12.3.2 of Edition 2011);
——The assessment requirements of tear force are added (see 3.11);
——The assessment requirements of appearance quality after washing are modified and supplemented (see 3.11; 3.12.1.3 of Edition 2011)
——The inspection tools are modified (see 4.1; 4.1 of Edition 2011);
——The requirements for specification determination are modified (see 4.2; 4.2 of Edition 2011);
——The requirements for appearance determination are modified (see 4.3; 4.3 of Edition 2011);
——The requirements for the determination of physical and chemical properties are modified (see 4.4; 4.4 of Edition 2011);
——The judgment basis for appearance quality defects are modified and supplemented (see 5.2.3; 5.2.3 of Edition 2011);
——The sampling rules and judgment rules are modified (see 5.3 and 5.4; 5.3 and 5.4 of Edition 2011);
——The annex "Test method for seam slippage" is deleted (see Annex A of Edition 2011).
This standard was proposed by China National Textile and Apparel Council.
This standard is under the jurisdiction of National Technical Committee on Garments of Standardization Administration of China (SAC/TC 219).
The previous editions of this standard are as follows:
——FZ/T 81008-1994, FZ/T 81008-2004 and FZ/T 81008-2011.
Jackets
1 Scope
This standard specifies the requirements, inspection methods, inspection rules and marking, packaging, transportation and storage of jackets.
This standard is applicable to the jackets mainly made of woven fabrics.
This standard is not applicable to the garments for infants aged 36 months and below.
2 Normative references
The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced documents (including any amendments) applies.
GB/T 250 Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Grey scale for assessing change in color
GB/T 1335 (All parts) Standard sizing systems for garments
GB/T 3917.2 Textiles - Tear properties of fabrics - Part 2: Determination of tear force of trouser-shaped test specimens (Single tear method)
GB/T 3921-2008 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Color fastness to washing with soap or soap and soda
GB/T 4802.1-2008 Textiles - Determination of fabric propensity to surface fuzzing and to pilling - Part 1: Circular locus method
GB/T 4841.3 Colour cards of standard depths for dyeing with dyestuffs 2/1, 1/3, 1/6, 1/12, 1/25
GB/T 5296.4 Instructions for use of products of consumer interest - Part 4: Textiles and apparel
GB/T 5711 Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Colour fastness to dry cleaning using perchloroethylene solvent
GB/T 8427-2019 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Color fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc fading lamp test
GB/T 8629-2017 Textiles - Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing
GB/T 8630 Textiles - Determination of dimensional change in washing and drying
GB/T 14801 Test method for skewness and bow in woven and knitted fabrics
GB 18401 National general safety technical code for textile products
GB/T 21294 Testing methods of physical and chemical performance of garments
GB/T 21295-2014 Requirements of physical and chemical performance of garments
GB/T 29862 Textiles - Identification of fiber content
GB/T 31127-2014 Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Colour fastness to transfer in joints
GB 31701 Safety technical code for infants and children textile products
GB/T 31702 Testing method for sharpness of attached components on textile products
GB/T 31907 Method of garment measurement
FZ/T 80002 Marking, packaging, transportation and storage for garments
FZ/T 80004 Rule for garments delivery inspection
FZ/T 80007.1 Test method of peeled off strength value for garments used adhesive interlining
FZ/T 80007.3 Dry wash resistance test method for garments used adhesive interlining
Sample photos of appearance defects on M&F unlined and padded garments and M&F children's unlined garments
3 Requirements
3.1 Instructions for use
Instructions for use shall comply with the requirements of GB/T 5296.4 and GB 31701.
3.2 Size specification
3.2.1 Size specification shall be set according to the requirements of GB/T 1335.
3.2.2 The specification of main parts shall be designed according to the relevant requirements of GB/T 1335.
3.3 Raw materials
3.3.1 Shell fabric
Shell fabric in conformity to the quality requirement of this standard shall be selected according to the relevant standards for textile fabrics.
3.3.2 Lining
Lining suitable for the applied shell fabric and complying with the quality requirements of this standard shall be adopted.
3.3.3 Accessories
3.3.3.1 Lining cloth, shoulder pad, border lace and pocket bag
Lining cloth, shoulder pad, border lace and pocket bag suitable for the performance and color of the adopted fabric and lining shall be used and their quality shall meet the requirements of this standard.
3.3.3.2 Sewing thread, rope belt and elastic ribbon
Sewing thread, rope belt and elastic ribbon (except ornamental thread and belt) suitable to the performance of the used shell fabric, lining and accessories shall be adopted.
3.3.3.3 Button, zipper and other accessories
Buttons (except decorative buttons), zippers and other accessories suitable for the adopted shell fabric shall be used. Button, ornamental button, zipper and other accessories shall be smooth in surface and free of burr, damage, defect and accessible sharp tip or edge. The zipper shall mesh in good condition and run smoothly.
Note: Accessible sharp tip or edge are the sharp edge and tip on finished product that may cause harm to human skin under normal wearing.
3.4 Warp and weft yarn
3.4.1 The permissible yarn skewness of the top collar, back and sleeve shall not be greater than 3%. The front bottom hem shall be free from any upwarp.
3.4.2 The weft skewness of yarn-dyed plaid fabrics shall not be greater than 3%.
3.5 Strip and plaid matching
3.5.1 Obvious strips or plaids of 1.0cm or above on shell fabric shall comply with those specified in Table 1.
Table 1 In cm
Parts Requirements for strip and plaid matching Remarks
Left and right fronts Strips shall be straight and plaids shall match each other horizontally with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.3 If the sizes of strip and plaid are different, the upper half of the clothes length shall prevail
Pocket and front Strips and plaids are matched with each other respectively with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.3. The patch pockets with inclined strips and plaids shall be symmetrical bilaterally with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.5 (except for the shadow strips and plaids) If the sizes of strips and plaids are different, the front part of pocket shall prevail
Collar point and lapel Strips are symmetrical with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.2 In case of any shadow plaid, apparent strip and plaid shall prevail
Sleeves Strips are straight; plaids are matched with each other horizontally; both sleeves shall be symmetrical in relation to the sleeve top, with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.8 —
Back seam Strips are matched with each other and plaids are matched each other horizontally, with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.3 —
Side seam Plaids are matched with each other horizontally and the mutual deviation 10.0 below the armhole is not greater than 0.4 —
Note: Except in special design.
3.5.2 Shell fabrics have obvious stripes or plaids of 0.5cm~1.0cm; for pocket and the front, stripes and plaids are matched with each other, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.2cm.
3.5.3 The grain direction of nip-up and down pile and checkerboard weave fabric is consistent all over the body.
3.5.4 Shell fabric with special pattern shall be subject to the main pattern and the grain direction all over the body shall be consistent.
3.6 Color difference
3.6.1 The color difference of top collar, lapel and front shawl from the front is greater than Grade 4, and that of other surface part is not lower than Grade 4.
3.6.2 The color difference of lining shall not be lower than Grade 3-4.
3.7 Appearance defects
The defect permissibility for each part of finished product shall comply with those specified in Table 2. See Figure 1 for division of each part of finished product. Only one defect within permissibility is permissible at each part. The defects not covered in this standard shall be in accordance with the requirements for similar ones in Table 2 based on their forms.
