Codeofchina.com is in charge of this English translation. In case of any doubt about the English translation, the Chinese original shall be considered authoritative.
This standard is developed in accordance with the rules given in GB/T 1.1-2009.
This standard replaces GB/T 2664-2009 Men’s Suits and Coats; the main changes have been made with respect to GB/T 2664-2009:
——the application scope of this standard is modified, and the requirement of not applicable to products for infants is added (see Chapter 1; Chapter 1 in 2009 edition);
——normative references are supplemented and modified (see Chapter 2; Chapter 2 in 2009 edition);
——relevant requirements of garments for children aged 3~14 years given in GB 31701 are added herein (see 3.1 and 3.12);
——the requirements of accessory materials are modified (see 3.3.3; 3.3.3 in 2009 edition);
——the requirements of strip and plaid pattern skewness are added (see 3.5.1);
——the appearance quality requirements are incorporated into sewing requirements (see 3.9; 3.9 and 3.11 in 2009 edition);
——the requirements of top and blind stitches and buttonholing stitch density are modified, and the requirements of button sewing stitch density are deleted (see 3.9.1; 3.9.1 in 2009 edition);
——the requirements for color fastness to perspiration and appearance after washing are added, and the requirements for seam performance (stitch slipping) and peeling strength of part with covered adhesive interlining are modified (see 3.12; 3.13 in 2009 edition);
——the measurement method for measurement method for specifications and dimensions is modified to "in accordance with GB/T 31907" (see 4.2; 4.2 in 2009 edition);
——the test method for safety performance of children's garments is added (see 4.4.1);
——the test method for dimensional change rate after dry cleaning is modified, and the requirement of adopting dedicate dry cleaning method is added (see 4.4.2; 4.4.7 in 2009 edition);
——the test method standard for color fastness to dry cleaning is updated, the principle is modified, the requirement of "the test shall be carried out with the specimen fit closely with adjacent fabric" is added, and the "solvent staining is assessed" is changed to "adjacent fabric staining" (see 4.4.4; 4.4.9 in 2009 edition);
——the test method for color fastness to light is modified (see 4.4.5; 4.4.13 in 2009 edition);
——the appearance test method after washing is added (see 4.4.8);
——the test method for point and edge sharpness of accessories is added (see 4.4.9);
——the testing methods of physical and chemical performance of garments are quoted (see 4.4.10);
——type inspection opportunity is added (see 5.1.1);
——the judgment basis for quality defect is modified (see 5.2.3; 5.2.2 in 2009 edition);
——re-inspection requirements are modified (see 5.4.4; 5.4.4 in 2009 edition);
——Annex A in 2009 edition is deleted, and the seam slippage test method complies with the requirements of GB/T 21294 (see 4.4.10; 4.4.15 in 2009 edition).
This standard was proposed by China National Textile and Apparel Council.
This standard is under the jurisdiction of National Technical Committee on Garments of Standardization Administration of China (SAC/TC 219).
The previous editions replaced by this standard are as follows:
——GB/T 2664-1993, GB/T 2664-2001 and GB/T 2664-2009.
Men's Suits and Coats
1 Scope
This standard specifies the requirements, inspection methods, inspection rules, and marking, packaging, transportation and storage of men's suits and coats.
This standard is applicable to men's suits and coats and other woolen garments produced with pure wool, wool blended and interwoven fabric, wool-like fabric and other woven fabric as the main fabric.
This standard is not applicable to garments for infants aged 36 months and below.
2 Normative References
The following documents for the application of this document are essential. Any dated reference, just dated edition applies to this document. For undated references, the latest edition (including any amendments) applies to this document.
GB/T 250 Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Grey Scale for Assessing Change in Colour
GB/T 1335.1 Standard Sizing Systems for Garments - Men
GB/T 1335.3 Standard Sizing Systems for Garments - Children
GB/T 3917.2 Textiles - Tear Properties of Fabrics - Part 2: Determination of Tear Force of Trouser-shaped Test Specimens (Single Tear Method)
GB/T 3921-2008 Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Colour Fastness to Washing with Soap or Soap and Soda
GB/T 4802.1 Textiles - Determination of Fabric Propensity to Surface Fuzzing and to Pilling - Part 1: Circular Locus Method
GB/T 4841.3 Colour Cards of Standard Depths for Dyeing with Dyestuffs 2/1, 1/3, 1/6, 1/12, 1/25
GB/T 5296.4 Instructions for Use of Products of Consumer Interest - Part 4: Textiles and Apparel
GB/T 5711 Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Colour Fastness to Drycleaning Using Perchloroethylene Solvent
GB/T 8427-2008 Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Color Fastness to Artificial Light: Xenon Arc Fading Lamp Test
GB/T 8629-2017 Textiles - Domestic Washing and Drying Procedures for Textile Testing
GB/T 8630 Textiles - Determination of Dimensional Change in Washing and Drying
GB/T 14304 Sizes for Woolen Suits
GB/T 14801 Test Method for Skewness and Bow in Woven and Knitted Fabrics
GB 18401 National General Safety Technical Code for Textile Products
GB/T 21294 Testing Methods of Physical and Chemical Performance of Garments
GB/T 21295-2014 Requirements of Physical and Chemical Performance of Garments
GB/T 29862 Textiles - Identification of Fiber Content
GB 31701 Safety Technical Code for Infants and Children Textile Products
GB/T 31702 Testing Method for Sharpness of Attached Components on Textile Products
GB/T 31907 Method of Garment Measurement
FZ/T 80002 Marking, Packaging, Transpiration and Storage for Garments
FZ/T 80004 Rule for Garments Delivery Inspection
FZ/T 80007.3 Dry Wash Resistance Test Method for Garments used Adhesive Interlining
GSB 16-2921-2012 Standard Sample Photos of Woolen Fabrics Pilling
GSB 16-2924-2012 Standard Sample Photos of Worsted Fabrics (Plain Surface) Pilling
GSB 16-2925-2012 Standard Sample Photos of Worsted Fabrics (Raised Surface) Pilling
Sample Photos of Surface Wrinkles of Men's Suits
Sample Photos of Surface Defects of Woolen Garments
3 Requirements
3.1 Instructions for use
Instructions for use shall be in accordance with those specified in GB/T 5296.4 and GB 31701.
3.2 Size specifications
3.2.1 Size designations shall be in accordance with those specified in GB/T 1335.1 and GB/T 1335.3.
3.2.2 The specifications of main parts shall be designed independently in accordance with the relevant requirements of GB/T 1335.1, GB/T 1335.3 and GB/T 14304.
3.3 Raw materials
3.3.1 Fabric
Fabric adopted shall meet the relevant quality requirements of this standard.
3.3.2 Lining
Lining adopted shall be suitable to the fabric adopted and meet the relevant quantity requirements of this standard.
3.3.3 Accessory materials
3.3.3.1 Interlining, shoulder pad, border lace and pocket bag
The interlining, shoulder pad, border lace and pocket bag adopted shall be suitable to the performance of the fabric and lining adopted, and their quality shall meet relevant requirements of this standard.
3.3.3.2 Stitch thread, drawstrings and cords, elastic ribbon
The stitch thread, drawstrings and cords, and elastic ribbon (except ornamental thread and tape) adopted shall be suitable to the performance of the fabric, lining and accessory materials adopted.
3.3.3.3 Button, zipper and other accessories
Button (excluding ornamental button), zipper and other accessories adopted shall be suitable to the fabric adopted. The surfaces of button, ornamental button, zipper and other accessories shall be smooth and free from burr, damage, defects and accessible sharp tip or edge. Zippers shall be good in meshing and operate smoothly.
Note: accessible sharp tip or edge refers to the sharp tip and edge on finished product that may hurt human skin under normal wearing.
3.4 Warp and weft yarn
The warp and weft yarn of fabric shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 1.
Table 1 In: cm
Part name Yarn direction requirement
Front Warp yarn shall be subject to the neck width line, without any skewness; the hem shall not upwarp
Back Warp yarn shall be subject to the back center line below waist line, with permissible skewness no greater than 0.5 for suits and no greater than 1.0 for coats; skewness is unallowable for yarn-dyed strip and plaid materials
Sleeve Warp yarn shall be subject to the seam line, with permissible skewness no greater than 1.0 for topside sleeve and no greater than 1.5 for underside sleeve (except the special craft)
Top collar Skewness of weft yarn shall not be greater than 0.5, and skewness is unallowable for yarn-dyed strip and plaid materials
Pocket flap It shall be consistent with the yarn direction of body piece; skewed fabric shall be in the bilateral symmetry
Facing Warp yarn shall be subject to the front edge, without any skewness
3.5 Strip and plaid matching
3.5.1 The skewness of strip and plaid pattern shall not be greater than 2% (except in special design).
3.5.2 Fabric with obvious stripes and plaids in width of 1.0cm or above shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 2.
Table 2 In: cm
Part name Strip and plaid matching requirements
Left and right fronts Strips shall match each other, and plaids shall match each other horizontally, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.3. They both shall be in bilateral symmetry
Breast pocket and front a Strips shall match each other, and plaids shall match each other, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.2
Side pocket and front Strips shall match each other, and plaids shall match each other, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.3
Sleeve and front Plaids above elbow line and those of the front shall match each other horizontally, with mutual deviation between two sleeves no greater than 0.5
Sleeve seam Plaids at elbow seam above elbow line shall match each other horizontally, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.3
Center back seam On the basis of the top, strips shall be symmetrical, and plaids shall match each other horizontally, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.2. They both shall be in bilateral symmetry
Center back seam and back top collar Strips shall match each other, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.2
Collar and lapel Strips and plaids shall be in bilateral symmetry, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.2
Side seam Plaids shall match each other horizontally at the part 10.0 below the armhole, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.3
Sleeve Strips and plaids shall be straight, and the mutual deviation between two sleeves relative to the sleeve top shall not be greater than 0.5
Note 1: The strips and plaids cycling per by colour shall match each other per the colour cycle.
Note 2: Special design is excluded.
a For the fabric with obvious strips and plaids in width of 0.5 or above and less than 1.0, the mutual deviation shall not be greater than 0.1.
3.5.3 As for the fabric going down or up and the checkerboard fabric, the forward direction shall be consistent on the whole garment.
3.6 Stitching
The coat facing may be applied in the way of two connections and one splicing to avoid buttonhole positions and be stitched between the lower first and second buttonholes on the lapel. Flange of suits and coats may be applied in the way of two connections and one splicing, while stitching is unallowable for other parts. Special design is excluded.
3.7 Color difference
3.7.1 The color difference between sleeve seam and side seam is not lower than Grade 4 while that of other surface parts is higher than Grade 4, and the color difference caused by influence of interlining is not lower than Grade 4 (except in special design).
3.7.2 The color difference between tops and bottoms in suits is not lower than Grade 4.
3.8 Appearance defect
The permissibility of defect at each part of the finished product shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 3, and see Figure 1 for the division of each part of the finished product. For high-grade products, defect is disallowed for front top collar and lapel, and only one kind of defect within the permissibility is allowed for other parts. The defects not listed in this standard may, according to their patterns, refer to the requirements of similar defects in Table 3.
Table 3
Defect name Permissibility of each part
Part 1 Part 2 Part 3
Yarn defect Not permissible Slight defect: with total length less than 1.0cm or total area less than 0.3cm2; visible defect: not permissible Slight defect: with total length less than 1.5cm or total area less than 0.5cm2; visible defect: not permissible
Neps (pcs) 1 3 5
Striation and crease Not permissible Slight defect: with total length less than 1.5cm or total area less than 1.0cm2; visible defect: not permissible Slight defect: with total length less than 2.0cm or total area less than 1.5cm2; visible defect: not permissible
Spots (oil stain, rust stain, color stain, water stain, etc.) Not permissible Slight defect: with total area less than or equal to 0.3cm2; visible defect: not permissible Slight defect: with total area less than or equal to 0.5cm2; visible defect: not permissible
Hole, abrasion and float loop Not permissible Not permissible Not permissible
Note: description of defect degree:
Slight defect: the defect which are invisible intuitively but recognizable if observed carefully.
Visible defect: the defect noticeable but not affecting the overall effect.
Figure 1
3.9 Sewing
3.9.1 Stitch density shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 4, except in special design.
Table 4
Item Stitch density Remarks
Top and blind stitch Not less than 11 stitches/3cm —
Overlock stitch Not less than 11 stitches/3cm —
Manual stitch Not less than 7 stitches/3cm Not less than 9 stitches/3cm on shoulder seam, armhole or collar
Hand-made/machine-made front edge Not less than 5 stitches/3 cm —
Catch stitch Not less than 5 stitches/3 cm Calculated by one side
Buttonholing Thin thread Not less than 12 stitches/1 cm —
Thick thread Not less than 9 stitches/1 cm —
Note: thin thread refers to the sewing thread of 20 tex or below; thick thread refers to the sewing thread above 20 tex.
3.9.2 The sewing line on each part shall be straight, regular and firm. The crimple sewed at main surface parts shall comply with the Sample Photos of Surface Wrinkles of Men's Suits and shall not be lower than Grade 4.
3.9.3 The seam allowance width is not less than 0.8cm (except slit pocket, collar front edge and front edge). The bias tape and band shall be flat and smooth and also be consistent in width. The place of stitching rising and falling shall be back stitched.
3.9.4 The upper and lower threads shall be in proper elasticity, without skipping stitching, broken stitching, loose stitching or continuous thread end. The base thread shall not be exposed. Top stitch and chain stitch on each part shall be free from skipping stitch, and connection is disallowed in case of top stitch; other sewing stitches shall be free from continuous skipping stitches or more than one individual skipping stitch within 30cm.
3.9.5 The top collar shall be flat and smooth and in proper elasticity, the neck line shall be round and smooth, the left and right collar points shall not upwarp. The gorge line and roll line of lapel shall be straight, the left and right lapels shall be symmetrical in terms of width and collar notch size, and the collar inclination shall be appropriate.
3.9.6 The setting in sleeve shall be round and smooth with uniform easing, and two sleeves shall be consistent with each other at the front and back and in term of length.
3.9.7 The front chest shall be stiff, smooth and symmetrical, the fabric, lining and interlining shall fit closely, and the dart shall be straight.
3.9.8 The left and right pockets and the pocket flaps shall be symmetrical up and down and at front and back, the pocket flap shall be suitable to the width of pocket mouth, the pattern of pocket flap shall be consistent with that of body piece (shall be in bilateral symmetry if skewed fabric is used). The pocket bag and its padding shall be applied with clean finish hem, overlock stitch or other processes, to ensure no slipping of edge yarn. Both ends of pocket mouth shall be firm, and back stitching may be carried out with tacking machine or lockstitch sewing machine (blind stitch).
3.9.9 The back shall be flat and smooth.
3.9.10 Shoulder shall be flat and smooth and without any winkle on surface, and the shoulder seam shall be straight and be in bilateral symmetry.
3.9.11 As for the armhole, sleeve seam, hem, cuff, facing opening, coat side seam, etc., fastening stitch shall be firm.
3.9.12 The buttonhole is accurately positioned and in proper size. The button and buttonhole shall be aligned and sewed firmly. The button shank shall be suitable in height, and the knot shall not be exposed.
3.9.13 The trademark and permanent label shall be upright, flat and smooth.
Codeofchina.com is in charge of this English translation. In case of any doubt about the English translation, the Chinese original shall be considered authoritative.
This standard is developed in accordance with the rules given in GB/T 1.1-2009.
This standard replaces GB/T 2664-2009 Men’s Suits and Coats; the main changes have been made with respect to GB/T 2664-2009:
——the application scope of this standard is modified, and the requirement of not applicable to products for infants is added (see Chapter 1; Chapter 1 in 2009 edition);
——normative references are supplemented and modified (see Chapter 2; Chapter 2 in 2009 edition);
——relevant requirements of garments for children aged 3~14 years given in GB 31701 are added herein (see 3.1 and 3.12);
——the requirements of accessory materials are modified (see 3.3.3; 3.3.3 in 2009 edition);
——the requirements of strip and plaid pattern skewness are added (see 3.5.1);
——the appearance quality requirements are incorporated into sewing requirements (see 3.9; 3.9 and 3.11 in 2009 edition);
——the requirements of top and blind stitches and buttonholing stitch density are modified, and the requirements of button sewing stitch density are deleted (see 3.9.1; 3.9.1 in 2009 edition);
——the requirements for color fastness to perspiration and appearance after washing are added, and the requirements for seam performance (stitch slipping) and peeling strength of part with covered adhesive interlining are modified (see 3.12; 3.13 in 2009 edition);
——the measurement method for measurement method for specifications and dimensions is modified to "in accordance with GB/T 31907" (see 4.2; 4.2 in 2009 edition);
——the test method for safety performance of children's garments is added (see 4.4.1);
——the test method for dimensional change rate after dry cleaning is modified, and the requirement of adopting dedicate dry cleaning method is added (see 4.4.2; 4.4.7 in 2009 edition);
——the test method standard for color fastness to dry cleaning is updated, the principle is modified, the requirement of "the test shall be carried out with the specimen fit closely with adjacent fabric" is added, and the "solvent staining is assessed" is changed to "adjacent fabric staining" (see 4.4.4; 4.4.9 in 2009 edition);
——the test method for color fastness to light is modified (see 4.4.5; 4.4.13 in 2009 edition);
——the appearance test method after washing is added (see 4.4.8);
——the test method for point and edge sharpness of accessories is added (see 4.4.9);
——the testing methods of physical and chemical performance of garments are quoted (see 4.4.10);
——type inspection opportunity is added (see 5.1.1);
——the judgment basis for quality defect is modified (see 5.2.3; 5.2.2 in 2009 edition);
——re-inspection requirements are modified (see 5.4.4; 5.4.4 in 2009 edition);
——Annex A in 2009 edition is deleted, and the seam slippage test method complies with the requirements of GB/T 21294 (see 4.4.10; 4.4.15 in 2009 edition).
This standard was proposed by China National Textile and Apparel Council.
This standard is under the jurisdiction of National Technical Committee on Garments of Standardization Administration of China (SAC/TC 219).
The previous editions replaced by this standard are as follows:
——GB/T 2664-1993, GB/T 2664-2001 and GB/T 2664-2009.
Men's Suits and Coats
1 Scope
This standard specifies the requirements, inspection methods, inspection rules, and marking, packaging, transportation and storage of men's suits and coats.
This standard is applicable to men's suits and coats and other woolen garments produced with pure wool, wool blended and interwoven fabric, wool-like fabric and other woven fabric as the main fabric.
This standard is not applicable to garments for infants aged 36 months and below.
2 Normative References
The following documents for the application of this document are essential. Any dated reference, just dated edition applies to this document. For undated references, the latest edition (including any amendments) applies to this document.
GB/T 250 Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Grey Scale for Assessing Change in Colour
GB/T 1335.1 Standard Sizing Systems for Garments - Men
GB/T 1335.3 Standard Sizing Systems for Garments - Children
GB/T 3917.2 Textiles - Tear Properties of Fabrics - Part 2: Determination of Tear Force of Trouser-shaped Test Specimens (Single Tear Method)
GB/T 3921-2008 Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Colour Fastness to Washing with Soap or Soap and Soda
GB/T 4802.1 Textiles - Determination of Fabric Propensity to Surface Fuzzing and to Pilling - Part 1: Circular Locus Method
GB/T 4841.3 Colour Cards of Standard Depths for Dyeing with Dyestuffs 2/1, 1/3, 1/6, 1/12, 1/25
GB/T 5296.4 Instructions for Use of Products of Consumer Interest - Part 4: Textiles and Apparel
GB/T 5711 Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Colour Fastness to Drycleaning Using Perchloroethylene Solvent
GB/T 8427-2008 Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Color Fastness to Artificial Light: Xenon Arc Fading Lamp Test
GB/T 8629-2017 Textiles - Domestic Washing and Drying Procedures for Textile Testing
GB/T 8630 Textiles - Determination of Dimensional Change in Washing and Drying
GB/T 14304 Sizes for Woolen Suits
GB/T 14801 Test Method for Skewness and Bow in Woven and Knitted Fabrics
GB 18401 National General Safety Technical Code for Textile Products
GB/T 21294 Testing Methods of Physical and Chemical Performance of Garments
GB/T 21295-2014 Requirements of Physical and Chemical Performance of Garments
GB/T 29862 Textiles - Identification of Fiber Content
GB 31701 Safety Technical Code for Infants and Children Textile Products
GB/T 31702 Testing Method for Sharpness of Attached Components on Textile Products
GB/T 31907 Method of Garment Measurement
FZ/T 80002 Marking, Packaging, Transpiration and Storage for Garments
FZ/T 80004 Rule for Garments Delivery Inspection
FZ/T 80007.3 Dry Wash Resistance Test Method for Garments used Adhesive Interlining
GSB 16-2921-2012 Standard Sample Photos of Woolen Fabrics Pilling
GSB 16-2924-2012 Standard Sample Photos of Worsted Fabrics (Plain Surface) Pilling
GSB 16-2925-2012 Standard Sample Photos of Worsted Fabrics (Raised Surface) Pilling
Sample Photos of Surface Wrinkles of Men's Suits
Sample Photos of Surface Defects of Woolen Garments
3 Requirements
3.1 Instructions for use
Instructions for use shall be in accordance with those specified in GB/T 5296.4 and GB 31701.
3.2 Size specifications
3.2.1 Size designations shall be in accordance with those specified in GB/T 1335.1 and GB/T 1335.3.
3.2.2 The specifications of main parts shall be designed independently in accordance with the relevant requirements of GB/T 1335.1, GB/T 1335.3 and GB/T 14304.
3.3 Raw materials
3.3.1 Fabric
Fabric adopted shall meet the relevant quality requirements of this standard.
3.3.2 Lining
Lining adopted shall be suitable to the fabric adopted and meet the relevant quantity requirements of this standard.
3.3.3 Accessory materials
3.3.3.1 Interlining, shoulder pad, border lace and pocket bag
The interlining, shoulder pad, border lace and pocket bag adopted shall be suitable to the performance of the fabric and lining adopted, and their quality shall meet relevant requirements of this standard.
3.3.3.2 Stitch thread, drawstrings and cords, elastic ribbon
The stitch thread, drawstrings and cords, and elastic ribbon (except ornamental thread and tape) adopted shall be suitable to the performance of the fabric, lining and accessory materials adopted.
3.3.3.3 Button, zipper and other accessories
Button (excluding ornamental button), zipper and other accessories adopted shall be suitable to the fabric adopted. The surfaces of button, ornamental button, zipper and other accessories shall be smooth and free from burr, damage, defects and accessible sharp tip or edge. Zippers shall be good in meshing and operate smoothly.
Note: accessible sharp tip or edge refers to the sharp tip and edge on finished product that may hurt human skin under normal wearing.
3.4 Warp and weft yarn
The warp and weft yarn of fabric shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 1.
Table 1 In: cm
Part name Yarn direction requirement
Front Warp yarn shall be subject to the neck width line, without any skewness; the hem shall not upwarp
Back Warp yarn shall be subject to the back center line below waist line, with permissible skewness no greater than 0.5 for suits and no greater than 1.0 for coats; skewness is unallowable for yarn-dyed strip and plaid materials
Sleeve Warp yarn shall be subject to the seam line, with permissible skewness no greater than 1.0 for topside sleeve and no greater than 1.5 for underside sleeve (except the special craft)
Top collar Skewness of weft yarn shall not be greater than 0.5, and skewness is unallowable for yarn-dyed strip and plaid materials
Pocket flap It shall be consistent with the yarn direction of body piece; skewed fabric shall be in the bilateral symmetry
Facing Warp yarn shall be subject to the front edge, without any skewness
3.5 Strip and plaid matching
3.5.1 The skewness of strip and plaid pattern shall not be greater than 2% (except in special design).
3.5.2 Fabric with obvious stripes and plaids in width of 1.0cm or above shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 2.
Table 2 In: cm
Part name Strip and plaid matching requirements
Left and right fronts Strips shall match each other, and plaids shall match each other horizontally, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.3. They both shall be in bilateral symmetry
Breast pocket and front a Strips shall match each other, and plaids shall match each other, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.2
Side pocket and front Strips shall match each other, and plaids shall match each other, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.3
Sleeve and front Plaids above elbow line and those of the front shall match each other horizontally, with mutual deviation between two sleeves no greater than 0.5
Sleeve seam Plaids at elbow seam above elbow line shall match each other horizontally, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.3
Center back seam On the basis of the top, strips shall be symmetrical, and plaids shall match each other horizontally, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.2. They both shall be in bilateral symmetry
Center back seam and back top collar Strips shall match each other, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.2
Collar and lapel Strips and plaids shall be in bilateral symmetry, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.2
Side seam Plaids shall match each other horizontally at the part 10.0 below the armhole, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.3
Sleeve Strips and plaids shall be straight, and the mutual deviation between two sleeves relative to the sleeve top shall not be greater than 0.5
Note 1: The strips and plaids cycling per by colour shall match each other per the colour cycle.
Note 2: Special design is excluded.
a For the fabric with obvious strips and plaids in width of 0.5 or above and less than 1.0, the mutual deviation shall not be greater than 0.1.
3.5.3 As for the fabric going down or up and the checkerboard fabric, the forward direction shall be consistent on the whole garment.
3.6 Stitching
The coat facing may be applied in the way of two connections and one splicing to avoid buttonhole positions and be stitched between the lower first and second buttonholes on the lapel. Flange of suits and coats may be applied in the way of two connections and one splicing, while stitching is unallowable for other parts. Special design is excluded.
3.7 Color difference
3.7.1 The color difference between sleeve seam and side seam is not lower than Grade 4 while that of other surface parts is higher than Grade 4, and the color difference caused by influence of interlining is not lower than Grade 4 (except in special design).
3.7.2 The color difference between tops and bottoms in suits is not lower than Grade 4.
3.8 Appearance defect
The permissibility of defect at each part of the finished product shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 3, and see Figure 1 for the division of each part of the finished product. For high-grade products, defect is disallowed for front top collar and lapel, and only one kind of defect within the permissibility is allowed for other parts. The defects not listed in this standard may, according to their patterns, refer to the requirements of similar defects in Table 3.
Table 3
Defect name Permissibility of each part
Part 1 Part 2 Part 3
Yarn defect Not permissible Slight defect: with total length less than 1.0cm or total area less than 0.3cm2; visible defect: not permissible Slight defect: with total length less than 1.5cm or total area less than 0.5cm2; visible defect: not permissible
Neps (pcs) 1 3 5
Striation and crease Not permissible Slight defect: with total length less than 1.5cm or total area less than 1.0cm2; visible defect: not permissible Slight defect: with total length less than 2.0cm or total area less than 1.5cm2; visible defect: not permissible
Spots (oil stain, rust stain, color stain, water stain, etc.) Not permissible Slight defect: with total area less than or equal to 0.3cm2; visible defect: not permissible Slight defect: with total area less than or equal to 0.5cm2; visible defect: not permissible
Hole, abrasion and float loop Not permissible Not permissible Not permissible
Note: description of defect degree:
Slight defect: the defect which are invisible intuitively but recognizable if observed carefully.
Visible defect: the defect noticeable but not affecting the overall effect.
Figure 1
3.9 Sewing
3.9.1 Stitch density shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 4, except in special design.
Table 4
Item Stitch density Remarks
Top and blind stitch Not less than 11 stitches/3cm —
Overlock stitch Not less than 11 stitches/3cm —
Manual stitch Not less than 7 stitches/3cm Not less than 9 stitches/3cm on shoulder seam, armhole or collar
Hand-made/machine-made front edge Not less than 5 stitches/3 cm —
Catch stitch Not less than 5 stitches/3 cm Calculated by one side
Buttonholing Thin thread Not less than 12 stitches/1 cm —
Thick thread Not less than 9 stitches/1 cm —
Note: thin thread refers to the sewing thread of 20 tex or below; thick thread refers to the sewing thread above 20 tex.
3.9.2 The sewing line on each part shall be straight, regular and firm. The crimple sewed at main surface parts shall comply with the Sample Photos of Surface Wrinkles of Men's Suits and shall not be lower than Grade 4.
3.9.3 The seam allowance width is not less than 0.8cm (except slit pocket, collar front edge and front edge). The bias tape and band shall be flat and smooth and also be consistent in width. The place of stitching rising and falling shall be back stitched.
3.9.4 The upper and lower threads shall be in proper elasticity, without skipping stitching, broken stitching, loose stitching or continuous thread end. The base thread shall not be exposed. Top stitch and chain stitch on each part shall be free from skipping stitch, and connection is disallowed in case of top stitch; other sewing stitches shall be free from continuous skipping stitches or more than one individual skipping stitch within 30cm.
3.9.5 The top collar shall be flat and smooth and in proper elasticity, the neck line shall be round and smooth, the left and right collar points shall not upwarp. The gorge line and roll line of lapel shall be straight, the left and right lapels shall be symmetrical in terms of width and collar notch size, and the collar inclination shall be appropriate.
3.9.6 The setting in sleeve shall be round and smooth with uniform easing, and two sleeves shall be consistent with each other at the front and back and in term of length.
3.9.7 The front chest shall be stiff, smooth and symmetrical, the fabric, lining and interlining shall fit closely, and the dart shall be straight.
3.9.8 The left and right pockets and the pocket flaps shall be symmetrical up and down and at front and back, the pocket flap shall be suitable to the width of pocket mouth, the pattern of pocket flap shall be consistent with that of body piece (shall be in bilateral symmetry if skewed fabric is used). The pocket bag and its padding shall be applied with clean finish hem, overlock stitch or other processes, to ensure no slipping of edge yarn. Both ends of pocket mouth shall be firm, and back stitching may be carried out with tacking machine or lockstitch sewing machine (blind stitch).
3.9.9 The back shall be flat and smooth.
3.9.10 Shoulder shall be flat and smooth and without any winkle on surface, and the shoulder seam shall be straight and be in bilateral symmetry.
3.9.11 As for the armhole, sleeve seam, hem, cuff, facing opening, coat side seam, etc., fastening stitch shall be firm.
3.9.12 The buttonhole is accurately positioned and in proper size. The button and buttonhole shall be aligned and sewed firmly. The button shank shall be suitable in height, and the knot shall not be exposed.
3.9.13 The trademark and permanent label shall be upright, flat and smooth.
