Cashmere
山羊绒
1 Scope
This standard specifies the requirements of classification and grading method, technical index, test method, inspection rules and certificate, packaging, marking, storage, transportation and re-inspection of cashmere (including raw cashmere, scoured cashmere and dehaired cashmere).
This standard is applicable to the cashmere quality evaluation during production, transaction, processing, quality supervision and import and export inspection.
2 Normative References
The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references, only the dated versions apply to this standard. For undated references, the latest edition of the normative document (include all the amendments) is applicable to this document.
GB/T 2910 (All Parts) Textiles - Quantitative Chemical Analysis
GB/T 6500 Test method for Moisture Regain of Wool; Drying Oven Method
GB/T 6529 Textiles - Standard Atmospheres for Textiles Conditioning and Testing
GB/T 6977 Test Method for Ethanol Extractives, Ash, Vegetable Matter, Total Ali-insoluble Impurities in Scoured Wool
GB/T 8170 Rules of Rounding Off for Numerical Values & Expression and Judgment of Limiting Values
GB 9994 Conventional Moisture Regains of Textiles
GB/T 10685Wool - Determination of Fiber Diameter - Projection Microscope Method
GB/T 14593 Quantitative Analysis Method of Cashmere, Wool and Their Blends - Scanning Electron Microscope Method
GB/T 16988 Quantitative Determination for Mixtures of Special Animal Fiber and Wool
GB/T 21030 Test Method for the Mean and Distribution of Fiber Diameter of Wool and Other Animal Fiber - Optical Fiber Diameter Analyzer (OFDA)
GB/T 27629 Determination of Breaking Tenacity of Animal Fiber Bundles
IWTO-12 Measurement of the Mean and Distribution of Fiber Diameter Using the Sirolan-laserscan Fiber Diameter Analyser
3 Terms and Definitions
For the purpose of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
3.1 Cashmere
Raw cashmere, scoured cashmere and dehaired cashmere are collectively referred to as cashmere. Thereinto, those with diameter equal to or less than 25μm belong to wool fiber.
3.2 Raw cashmere
The unprocessed wool fiber obtained from goat with double-layer fleece, mainly consists of underfur and accompanied with a small amount of natural foreign matter.
3.3 Scoured cashmere
The cashmere achieving specific quality requirement through scouring the raw cashmere.
3.4 Dehaired cashmere
The cashmere through scouring and industrial dehairing processing.
3.5 Guard hair
The hair fiber with diameter larger than 25μm in cashmere.
3.6 Dark fibers
The wool fiber contained in cashmere and the color of which differs apparently from the original primary color.
3.7 Non-animal fiber in cashmere
The vegetable fiber and chemical fiber contained in cashmere.
3.8 Other animal fiber in cashmere
The fiber of other animals except for goat.
3.9 Foreign matter
The non-fiber substance such as soil impurity, skin scrap and chaffywool containded in cashmere.
3.10 Scoured cashmere content
The percentage of conventional mass of raw cashmere after scouring to raw cashmere mass.
3.11 Pure cashmere content
The mass percentage of raw cashmere rectified on the basis of conventional moisture regain and conventional grease content after scouring, drying and removing the guard hair and foreign matter to the raw cashmere.
3.12 Scoured cashmere corrected mass
The mass of raw cashmere and scoured cashmere which are converted on the basis of pure cashmere content.
3.13 Guard hair content
The mass percentage of fiber with diameter larger than 25μm in dehaired cashmere to the total dehaired cashmere.
3.14 Foreign matter content
The mass percentage of foreign matter contained in dehaired cashmere to the total dehaired cashmere.
3.15 Pure cashmere
The morphologically changed wool fiber contained in cashmere (with content no larger than 5%) but not containing non-animal fiber and other animal fiber; it may also be known as all cashmere and 100% cashmere.
3.16 Short fiber content
The quantity percentage of wool fiber with length no larger than 15mm in pure cashmere to total pure cashmere.
3.17 Defect cashmere
Abnormal cashmere, mainly including: peltry cashmere, tanning cashmere, dry cancel cashmere, slipe cashmere, acariasis cashmere, moth-eaten cashmere and mildewed cashmere.
3.17.1 Peltry cashmere
The cashmere obtained from untanned goatskin.
3.17.2 Tanning cashmere
The cashmere obtained from tanned goatskin.
3.17.3 Dry cancel cashmere
The cashmere obtained from goatskin with chemical method.
3.17.4 Slipe cashmere
The cashmere obtained by soaking the goatskin into lime water.
3.17.5 Acariasis cashmere
The cashmere accompanied with scab and scurf obtained from the scabbed goat.
3.17.6 Moth-eaten cashmere
The cashmere with length being shortened after being eaten by moth.
3.17.7 Mildewed cashmere
The heated and degenerative cashmere because of dampness and its property characteristic is that the fiber is mildewed and becomes yellow, its strength is decreased and luster is dark.
4 Product Classification
Foreword I
1 Scope
2 Normative References
3 Terms and Definitions
4 Product Classification
5 Raw Cashmere
6 Scoured Cashmere
7 Dehaired Cashmere
8 Inspection Rule, Packaging, Marking, Storage, Transportation and Re-inspection
Cashmere
山羊绒
1 Scope
This standard specifies the requirements of classification and grading method, technical index, test method, inspection rules and certificate, packaging, marking, storage, transportation and re-inspection of cashmere (including raw cashmere, scoured cashmere and dehaired cashmere).
This standard is applicable to the cashmere quality evaluation during production, transaction, processing, quality supervision and import and export inspection.
2 Normative References
The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references, only the dated versions apply to this standard. For undated references, the latest edition of the normative document (include all the amendments) is applicable to this document.
GB/T 2910 (All Parts) Textiles - Quantitative Chemical Analysis
GB/T 6500 Test method for Moisture Regain of Wool; Drying Oven Method
GB/T 6529 Textiles - Standard Atmospheres for Textiles Conditioning and Testing
GB/T 6977 Test Method for Ethanol Extractives, Ash, Vegetable Matter, Total Ali-insoluble Impurities in Scoured Wool
GB/T 8170 Rules of Rounding Off for Numerical Values & Expression and Judgment of Limiting Values
GB 9994 Conventional Moisture Regains of Textiles
GB/T 10685Wool - Determination of Fiber Diameter - Projection Microscope Method
GB/T 14593 Quantitative Analysis Method of Cashmere, Wool and Their Blends - Scanning Electron Microscope Method
GB/T 16988 Quantitative Determination for Mixtures of Special Animal Fiber and Wool
GB/T 21030 Test Method for the Mean and Distribution of Fiber Diameter of Wool and Other Animal Fiber - Optical Fiber Diameter Analyzer (OFDA)
GB/T 27629 Determination of Breaking Tenacity of Animal Fiber Bundles
IWTO-12 Measurement of the Mean and Distribution of Fiber Diameter Using the Sirolan-laserscan Fiber Diameter Analyser
3 Terms and Definitions
For the purpose of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
3.1 Cashmere
Raw cashmere, scoured cashmere and dehaired cashmere are collectively referred to as cashmere. Thereinto, those with diameter equal to or less than 25μm belong to wool fiber.
3.2 Raw cashmere
The unprocessed wool fiber obtained from goat with double-layer fleece, mainly consists of underfur and accompanied with a small amount of natural foreign matter.
3.3 Scoured cashmere
The cashmere achieving specific quality requirement through scouring the raw cashmere.
3.4 Dehaired cashmere
The cashmere through scouring and industrial dehairing processing.
3.5 Guard hair
The hair fiber with diameter larger than 25μm in cashmere.
3.6 Dark fibers
The wool fiber contained in cashmere and the color of which differs apparently from the original primary color.
3.7 Non-animal fiber in cashmere
The vegetable fiber and chemical fiber contained in cashmere.
3.8 Other animal fiber in cashmere
The fiber of other animals except for goat.
3.9 Foreign matter
The non-fiber substance such as soil impurity, skin scrap and chaffywool containded in cashmere.
3.10 Scoured cashmere content
The percentage of conventional mass of raw cashmere after scouring to raw cashmere mass.
3.11 Pure cashmere content
The mass percentage of raw cashmere rectified on the basis of conventional moisture regain and conventional grease content after scouring, drying and removing the guard hair and foreign matter to the raw cashmere.
3.12 Scoured cashmere corrected mass
The mass of raw cashmere and scoured cashmere which are converted on the basis of pure cashmere content.
3.13 Guard hair content
The mass percentage of fiber with diameter larger than 25μm in dehaired cashmere to the total dehaired cashmere.
3.14 Foreign matter content
The mass percentage of foreign matter contained in dehaired cashmere to the total dehaired cashmere.
3.15 Pure cashmere
The morphologically changed wool fiber contained in cashmere (with content no larger than 5%) but not containing non-animal fiber and other animal fiber; it may also be known as all cashmere and 100% cashmere.
3.16 Short fiber content
The quantity percentage of wool fiber with length no larger than 15mm in pure cashmere to total pure cashmere.
3.17 Defect cashmere
Abnormal cashmere, mainly including: peltry cashmere, tanning cashmere, dry cancel cashmere, slipe cashmere, acariasis cashmere, moth-eaten cashmere and mildewed cashmere.
3.17.1 Peltry cashmere
The cashmere obtained from untanned goatskin.
3.17.2 Tanning cashmere
The cashmere obtained from tanned goatskin.
3.17.3 Dry cancel cashmere
The cashmere obtained from goatskin with chemical method.
3.17.4 Slipe cashmere
The cashmere obtained by soaking the goatskin into lime water.
3.17.5 Acariasis cashmere
The cashmere accompanied with scab and scurf obtained from the scabbed goat.
3.17.6 Moth-eaten cashmere
The cashmere with length being shortened after being eaten by moth.
3.17.7 Mildewed cashmere
The heated and degenerative cashmere because of dampness and its property characteristic is that the fiber is mildewed and becomes yellow, its strength is decreased and luster is dark.
4 Product Classification
Contents of GB 18267-2013
Foreword I
1 Scope
2 Normative References
3 Terms and Definitions
4 Product Classification
5 Raw Cashmere
6 Scoured Cashmere
7 Dehaired Cashmere
8 Inspection Rule, Packaging, Marking, Storage, Transportation and Re-inspection
